Lithuania

A country of amber and Baroque on the south-eastern Baltic coast: Vilnius old town is one of northern Europe's largest Baroque districts; Trakai's island castle, the Hill of Crosses and the Curonian Spit string history, faith and coast into a single line.

History: The Grand Duchy of Lithuania was once one of Europe's largest states; Vilnius accepted Catholicism in 1387, and Vilnius old town (Senamiestis) was inscribed as World Heritage in 1994. Trakai (Trakai) was the Grand Duchy's capital in the 14th–15th centuries, and its island castle is historical witness to the co-residence of groups including the Karaims; Kernavė (Kernavė) was an early capital site, World Heritage; the Hill of Crosses (Kryžių kalnas) is a folk-faith site, repeatedly demolished and re-erected in the Soviet period. Lithuanian is one of the oldest surviving Indo-European languages, and amber (gintaras) is the national symbolic product. Legend: A legend is told about the founding of Vilnius: Grand Duke Gediminas dreamed of an iron wolf howling, and a priest interpreted the dream as a sign to found a city here — this is a founding legend; historically Vilnius already appears in the Grand Duke's letters in 1323, and legend and documents must be kept apart. Another legend says a water spirit guards Trakai's island; this too is a folk legend.

• Vilnius old town and the Gate of Dawn (Senamiestis / Aušros vartai) — World Heritage, St Anne's Church and Cathedral Square.
• Trakai Island Castle (Trakų salos pilis) — a red-brick island castle, about half an hour from Vilnius.
• The Republic of Užupis (Užupis) — a self-declared “republic” arts district, with its own constitution wall.
• The Hill of Crosses (Kryžių kalnas) — a forest of crosses near Šiauliai, solemn in atmosphere.
• The Curonian Spit (Kuršių nerija) — Nida fishing village, dunes and amber coast, World Heritage.

Intercity travel is mainly by bus and rail, with frequent Vilnius–Kaunas and Vilnius–Klaipėda trains and buses; Trakai can be reached by bus or train in about half an hour, and the Curonian Spit requires going first to Klaipėda and then taking a ferry to the island, with ferry times and fares subject to official announcements. Vilnius city has no metro or trams, only buses and trolleybuses; the old town is on foot. Ticketing: Vilniečio kortelė (the Vilnius Card) is a rechargeable electronic card, costing about 1.5 euros, purchasable at Narvesen and Lietuvos spauda kiosks; time tickets are of the order of 0.65 euros for 30 minutes and 0.9–1.5 euros for 60 minutes (different sources disagree, subject to official announcements), 24 hours about 5 euros, 3 days about 8 euros, and a single bought from the driver about 1–1.2 euros with no transfers; on boarding you must tap on the yellow validator, and fines for unvalidated travel if checked are subject to official announcements. The Trafi app shows live routes and ticket purchase. Rural and spit services are fewer at weekends, and winter ferries may be affected by weather — confirm in advance.

• Red Line: Do not laugh playfully, climb or take crosses away at the Hill of Crosses or memorial places; do not intrude on military areas or spit protected-area restricted zones; do not use flash photography during church rituals.
• Taboo: Do not conflate Lithuanian with Latvian or Russian; do not discuss the Soviet period loudly in public while ignoring locals' memories; dress modestly in churches, women covering shoulders and knees.
• Good Manners: Shake hands on meeting and add respectful forms to names; remove shoes when visiting and bring flowers or sweets; restaurant tips about 5%–10% or rounding up.
• Pitfalls for visitors: ① Buying a time ticket but forgetting to tap/validate on boarding, then being checked; ② Assuming a ticket bought from the driver also allows transfers, when transfers require a new ticket.

The currency is the euro, card payment is common, with a little cash for the countryside; the best season is May–September, with tight spit accommodation in summer; buy amber products from reputable shops — natural amber is not cheap, and low-priced “amber” is mostly imitation (points to be verified are subject to professional appraisal); winters are bitterly cold and snowy — bring non-slip, warm gear.