Montenegro

A small mountain-and-sea country on the eastern Adriatic coast: on one side the fjord-like Bay of Kotor and Venetian-style old town, on the other Mount Durmitor and the Tara Canyon. It suits a combination of "two days in the bay + one day in the mountains".

History: The official language of Montenegro is Montenegrin, with Serbian and English also widely used; the currency is the euro (Montenegro is not an EU member; its use of the euro is a unilateral arrangement, subject to official information). Kotor Old Town and the surrounding bay, Durmitor National Park and the Tara River Canyon are listed as World Heritage or known for their natural heritage; historically Venetian, Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian influences met here, and the old town's stone lanes, walls and churches are the physical evidence of this layered history. The 19th-century poet and bishop Petar II Petrović Njegoš (Njegoš) is an important figure in Montenegrin cultural identity; his mausoleum is on Mount Lovćen. Legend: A legend is told about Our Lady of the Rocks (Gospa od Škrpjela): after fishermen found an icon of the Madonna on a reef, generations built up the island by sinking ships and stones into the sea, and the church on the island was built from this. This is a locally circulated legend; the claim that the island was artificially enlarged and the church's history must be understood separately, and exact dates are subject to official and academic sources.

• Kotor Old Town and walls (Stari grad Kotor) — walk the old town and climb St John's Fortress for a view over the bay; in summer be sure to protect against sun and stay hydrated.
• Our Lady of the Rocks and Perast (Gospa od Škrpjela / Perast) — take a boat to the island; in the church be quiet and dress appropriately.
• Budva Old Town and beaches (Budva) — the town with the strongest seaside resort atmosphere; in peak season it is crowded and expensive, so travel off-peak if possible.
• Durmitor and the Tara Canyon (Durmitor / Tara) — hiking, rafting and a walk around the Black Lake (Crno jezero); mountain roads take far longer than the straight-line distance on the map suggests.
• Cetinje and Lovćen (Cetinje / Lovćen) — the old capital's museums and the Njegoš Mausoleum, a window onto Montenegrin highland culture.

The international airports are Tivat (about 20 minutes by car from Kotor) and Podgorica (about 1.5–2 hours from Kotor). Intercity travel is mainly by long-distance bus, with fairly dense routes such as Kotor–Budva–Herceg Novi–Podgorica; tickets are mostly bought at station windows or in cash on board, and at small stops you need to hail the bus at the roadside; frequencies and fares are subject to official and station announcements. Rail covers only some inland routes and is not suitable as the main transport between bay cities. Kotor Old Town is a pedestrian zone, with vehicles parked in paid car parks outside the town; in summer, boats run in the bay between islands and coastal towns, with more sailings in peak season. Mountain roads are narrow and winding: Kotor to Žabljak is about 150 km and still normally takes 2.5–3 hours, longer in rain or fog; uphill vehicles have priority on narrow roads (subject to local traffic rules). For taxis, use licensed platforms or vehicles queuing at stations; around Tivat Airport there have been cases of gross overcharging, so confirm the price or meter before setting off. Fines for travelling without a ticket, illegal parking and the like are on the order of tens to hundreds of euros, subject to official announcements. Please also note: Montenegro is not an EU country, EU roaming does not apply, so arrange a local SIM or eSIM in advance.

• Red Line: Do not make a noise or casually photograph ceremonies in churches and monasteries; do not carve graffiti on, or climb restricted areas of, the bay protected area and old town walls; do not drink and drive.
• Taboo: The traps outsiders most easily fall into: (1) strolling through the old town and entering shops and restaurants in swimwear or bare-chested — coastal towns have clear penalties for this; change as soon as you leave the beach, and fines can reach hundreds of euros, subject to official announcements; (2) mistaking peak-season crowding in Budva for the whole of Montenegro, or packing "bay + canyon" into one day — mountain road times very easily disrupt the itinerary; (3) photographing local people without permission, or refusing the host's first glass of grape brandy (lozovača) in a brusque manner.
• Good Manners: Say "Dobar dan" (hello) as a greeting and "Hvala" to say thank you; in churches remove hats, cover shoulders and knees, and speak softly; for good service in restaurants a tip of 5%–10% may be left; Kotor's cats are a feature of the old town — look but do not chase them and do not feed them casually (subject to on-site notices).

The euro is in general use, but small shops, markets and the countryside mostly use cash; in summer, bay accommodation and parking must be booked in advance; old town cobbles are uneven with many steps, so wear non-slip shoes; for mountain hiking bring water, sun protection and stick to marked routes; emergency number 112; some sights' and restaurants' opening hours change with the season, so confirm once more before travelling.