Moldova

A landlocked agricultural country west of the Black Sea, between Romania and Ukraine, known for its underground wine cities, cave monasteries and the slow-paced capital Chișinău. It suits a leisurely one- or two-day combination of wine, countryside and Orthodox monasteries.

History: The official language of Moldova is Romanian, and Russian is also widely used in daily life; most residents are Orthodox Christians. Historically this land long stood under the influence of the Principality of Moldavia, the Ottoman Empire, the Russian Empire and the Soviet Union, and after independence it still combines a strong East European rural character with Soviet-era urban fabric. Around Orheiul Vechi there are remains of two ancient towns from the 14th–16th centuries and cliff cave monasteries. The underground cellars of Cricova and Mileștii Mici were converted from old limestone quarries and rank among the largest in the world; the wine collection of Mileștii Mici was once entered in the Guinness World Records. Legend: A story often told about Cricova says that Soviet cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin got lost in the cellars during a visit in 1966 and only came out the next day, and that a tasting room there is still named after him. This is a guide's legend/anecdote, the details are to be verified, and it should not be cited as established history.

• Orheiul Vechi cave monastery and canyon scenery (Orheiul Vechi) — the cliff churches are still in use; keep quiet when visiting.
• Cricova underground wine city (Cricova) — ride a small vehicle through underground "streets" named after grape varieties; book a guided tour in advance.
• Mileștii Mici cellars (Mileștii Mici) — another underground wine city famous for the size of its collection; booking is also required.
• A walk in central Chișinău (Chișinău) — the cathedral, the Triumphal Arch and Ștefan cel Mare Boulevard area, good for a half-day city stroll.
• Curchi Monastery (Mănăstirea Curchi) — one of Moldova's more representative monastery complexes; dress appropriately in religious sites.

Intercity travel is mainly by long-distance bus and minibus, with fairly frequent services between Chișinău and the main cities; rail coverage is limited and slow, so it should not be relied on alone. In the city, trolleybuses, buses and shared minibuses (maxi-taxi) are the main options; there is no metro. The trolleybus is the cheapest way to get around the city, with a single fare on the order of a single-digit number of lei; conductors mostly collect cash on board, some newer vehicles accept contactless payment, so be sure to carry small change. From the airport to the city, use a ride-hailing app or hotel transfer; haggling with cars hailed at the roadside easily leads to overcharging, so confirm the price in the app before travelling. For the countryside, wine cellars and Orheiul Vechi, the most practical options are a chartered car or a day tour from Chișinău; driving yourself requires an international driving permit, and note rural road conditions and poor lighting; drive with particular care in rural areas at night. Fares, fines and timetables are subject to official announcements. Please also note: the Transnistria region on the left bank of the Dniester has a special status, and its formalities and risks differ from those of mainland Moldova. Check your own government's official travel advice before travelling, do not go there on your own initiative, and this article does not treat it as a regular sightseeing route.

• Red Line: Do not photograph government, military or strategic facilities without permission; do not argue with staff or enter restricted areas at borders and checkpoints; do not photograph ceremonies in religious sites without permission.
• Taboo: The traps outsiders most easily fall into: (1) changing money at markets, on the roadside, or trusting street money changers — use only banks and licensed exchange points; (2) directly refusing the first glass of wine or food offered by a host, which is seen as impolite — if you really cannot drink, explain the reason early and politely, take a small sip, or substitute tea (in a way the host accepts); (3) talking loudly or dressing revealingly in monasteries and churches.
• Good Manners: When invited to someone's home, bring a small gift (dessert, cake or wine); a greeting in Romanian for "hello" or a Russian greeting on entering is fine, and younger people often speak English; queuing, giving up seats and talking quietly also apply on city public transport; tipping is not compulsory, and a small amount may be left in restaurants at your discretion.

The currency is the Moldovan leu (MDL). Cards are mostly accepted in large cities and restaurants; carry cash for markets, small shops and the countryside. Tap water is not recommended for direct drinking; buy bottled water. Summers are hot, winters damp and windy; pack according to the season. Mobile signal is good in the capital and on main roads, but may be unstable in the countryside. Before travelling, confirm that your visa and insurance cover the whole of Moldova.