Bosnia and Herzegovina

A country where three civilisations meet on a single bridge: mosques, churches and a synagogue stand side by side in Sarajevo, the Old Bridge of Mostar spans the Neretva, and war memory coexists with everyday café life.

History: The land of Bosnia belonged successively to Rome, Byzantium, the Kingdom of Hungary and the Ottoman Empire; after 1463 Islamic culture profoundly shaped the look of its cities; after 1878 it was ruled by Austria-Hungary, and the 1914 Sarajevo incident became the trigger of the First World War. The 1992–1995 war caused severe destruction; the Old Bridge of Mostar (Stari Most) was destroyed in 1993 and rebuilt as before in 2004, and is World Heritage. Today the country consists of two entities, the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina and Republika Srpska; Bosniaks, Serbs and Croats belong respectively to Islam, Orthodoxy and Catholicism, and Bosnian coffee culture (bosanska kafa) is a daily cross-community ritual. Legend: A legend is told about the Old Bridge of Mostar: its builder sacrificed himself so the bridge would not collapse — this is a folk legend; the bridge's construction history rests on Ottoman archives and rebuilding records. Another legend says the Blagaj spring (Vrelo Bune) is the dwelling of a dragon; this too is legend and must not be taken as geological history.

• Sarajevo's Baščaršija old bazaar (Baščaršija) — coppersmiths' street, mosques and cafés.
• Mostar Old Bridge and old town (Stari Most) — World Heritage, best in the early morning or evening when crowds are thin and light is good.
• The Tunnel of Hope Museum (Tunel spasa) — the site of the siege-period lifeline.
• The Blagaj Dervish monastery and Buna spring (Tekija Blagaj / Vrelo Bune) — a monastery by a spring under cliffs, about 12 km from Mostar.
• The Višegrad stone bridge (Most Mehmed-paše Sokolovića) — an Ottoman stone bridge, World Heritage, featured in “The Bridge on the Drina”.

Intercity travel is mainly by bus; rail lines are few and infrequent, and the Sarajevo–Mostar railway along the Neretva is scenic but its frequency and punctuality are subject to official announcements. Indicative bus fares: Sarajevo city trams, trolleybuses and buses about 2–4 convertible marks (KM) per single ride, Sarajevo–Mostar bus about 20–35 KM single, train about 12–20 KM (subject to official announcements). Sarajevo city centre can be covered on foot plus tram; Mostar old town is essentially on foot, with city buses about 1.5 KM; taxis should use the meter or an agreed price in advance, short trips a few to ten-plus KM. The currency is the convertible mark (BAM/KM), pegged to the euro at about 1 euro ≈ 1.96 KM; euros are accepted in some places but change is mostly given in marks — carry cash for small shops and markets. Mountain roads are narrow and winding; rural sights such as the Kravica waterfalls are best reached by hired car or tour, and hiking must follow marked routes (do not enter unmarked mine-risk areas from wartime unexploded ordnance, subject to official warnings).

• Red Line: Do not laugh or take photos playfully at war memorial sites or cemeteries; do not enter unmarked minefields or abandoned buildings; do not intrude or speak loudly during mosque rituals.
• Taboo: Remove shoes on entering a mosque and dress modestly, women covering their heads as required; do not discuss the 1990s war and ethnic issues lightly — listen first; do not simply equate “Bosnian” with one religion.
• Good Manners: Shake hands on meeting and use respectful forms for elders; when offered Bosnian coffee, savour it slowly and do not rush; restaurant tips about 10% (if service is not included).
• Pitfalls for visitors: ① Crowding to photograph the Mostar Old Bridge at the midday peak, and standing near where the diving performances land; ② Leaving marked trails while hiking and straying into uncleared areas.

The best seasons are May–June and September–October; allow 4–5 days for Sarajevo and Mostar at a relaxed pace; English works in tourist areas, local languages predominate in the countryside; the inland summer is hot — carry water and sun protection; documents and ticket rules for travel across entities are subject to official announcements.