Hoh Xil

Background

Hoh Xil means "blue ridge" in Mongolian; in Tibetan it is called Aqênganggyai, "king of ten thousand mountains". The region covers about 83,000 square kilometres at an average elevation of about 4,800 metres, stretching east to west between the Tanggula and Kunlun mountains; the World Heritage Site takes in the western half of Zhidoi County and the western part of Qumarlêb County in Yushu Prefecture, Qinghai. The Chumar River in the southeast is one of the main headwaters of the Yangtze, while the rest of the region drains inland into countless lakes. The Qinghai–Tibet Railway and National Highway 109 run along the eastern edge of the reserve, and the nearby Fenghuoshan Tunnel, with entrances at 4,905 metres, is the highest railway tunnel in the world. Despite the harsh climate, more than 230 species of wild animals live here, 20 of them under state protection, including wild yaks, kiangs, white-lipped deer, brown bears and the endangered Tibetan antelope; according to the World Heritage evaluation, the area holds about 40% of the world's Tibetan antelopes and half of its wild yaks. Qinghai made Hoh Xil a provincial nature reserve in 1995, and it became a national nature reserve in 1997; on 7 July 2017 "Qinghai Hoh Xil" was inscribed on the World Heritage List. The 2004 film Kekexili: Mountain Patrol made this wilderness and its antelopes known to far more people.

Local customs

• Travel along the eastern edge of the reserve on the Qinghai–Tibet Railway or Highway, looking out over plateau lakes, snow peaks and wildlife
• stop at open points along the road such as the Sonam Dargye Protection Station to learn about ranger patrols and antelope conservation
• when you see wild animals, stop and watch from a distance without honking, feeding or chasing them.

Travel tips

• The core of the reserve is closed to visitors, who may only look out from the Qinghai–Tibet Highway and Railway
• whether nearby viewing points are open is as announced by the reserve authorities, and you must never enter without permission. The route is at very high altitude, so even brief roadside stops call for precautions against altitude sickness: check your health before you go and bring sun protection and warm clothing. Supplies are scarce along the way, so carry enough water and food. From Golmud it is a drive of several hours along National Highway 109 to the eastern edge of the reserve, or you can join a licensed tour from Golmud
• check with the authorities and stations before travelling.
• Summer and early autumn, when the weather is relatively mild and the roads open, are the best times
• winters are long and bitterly cold, with heavy snow often closing roads, so avoid travelling then.