Shanhai Pass and Laolongtou

Background

Shanhai Pass stands in Shanhaiguan District, Qinhuangdao, Hebei, on the east bank of the Shi River, commanding the narrowest point of the Liaoxi Corridor between the Yan Mountains and the Bohai Sea, with walls stretching from the mountains all the way to the shore of Liaodong Bay; Laolongtou lies on the Bohai coast south of the pass city. The pass city is square, about 4 km around, with walls 14 m high and 7 m thick, and a moat on the east, south and north sides. Each side once had a gate: Zhendong in the east, Ying'en in the west, Wangyang in the south and Weiyuan in the north. After centuries without repair, only Zhendong, the most important, survives, and its gate tower carries the "First Pass Under Heaven" plaque. Laolongtou is where the Wall reaches the sea at its eastern end; according to the scenic area, a stone fort juts out into the water, and from Chenghai Tower you can watch the Wall run into the sea where sea and sky meet. The present pass was built in the early Ming dynasty as the easternmost fortress of the Ming Great Wall and was heavily reinforced after the Yongle Emperor moved the capital to Beijing, becoming the barrier that shielded the capital region; in the Qing dynasty it was called the "Key to the Capitals". It became a national key cultural relics protection site in 1961 and was inscribed on the World Heritage List as part of the Great Wall in 1987.

Local customs

• Climb the Zhendong Gate tower to see the "First Pass Under Heaven" plaque and the layout of the pass city, and walk the walls to get a feel for this pass squeezed between mountains and sea
• at Laolongtou, see the stone fort running into the sea and Chenghai Tower. The relationship between the sea and the fort changes with high and low tide, so plan your time around the tides.

Travel tips

• Shanhai Pass and Laolongtou are two separate sites with separate tickets and opening areas, so do not mix them up when planning or buying tickets
• the sea wind at Laolongtou is strong, so protect yourself from the sun in summer and dress against the wind in winter
• tickets and opening hours are subject to official information.
• You can take the Beijing–Harbin railway to Shanhaiguan Station, just south of the pass's main gate, or take high-speed rail or a long-distance coach to Shanhaiguan District, Qinhuangdao, then a bus or taxi to Laolongtou
• check official sources for specific services. Spring and autumn are mild, good for walking the walls and the shore
• summer by the sea is cool but busy
• winter sea winds are strong and bitterly cold, so keep an eye on the weather for climbing and seaside activities.