Hvar
赫瓦尔岛 · Hvar Town, Hvar, Croatia
Hvar town's seaside promenade and Dalmatia's largest square, plus the Španjola Fortress above town looking out over red rooftops, the harbour and the Pakleni Islands; in early summer lavender fields turn the island purple.
Know before you go
- Entering churches in swimwear
- climbing over the fortress railings
- wasting fresh water
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Stories & people
Stories & people
History
A whole town in the fortress
In 1571, the Ottoman fleet sacked Hvar town on its way to the Battle of Lepanto, plundering and burning it. The entire population took shelter in the fortress on the hill and survived. Eight years later a lightning-strike explosion damaged the fortress, which was then repaired into the form you see today.
Source: Wikipedia: Hvar (town); Croatia Traveller: Hvar Fortress (Fortica)
History
The "Spanish fortress"
The fortress is also called Španjola, the "Spanish fortress". Records say Spanish engineers took part in its construction in the 14th century, which may explain the nickname; locals more often call it Fortica.
Culture
Culture & customs
Background
Hvar lies in the central Adriatic, Croatia, in the waters south of Split. In Hvar town, St Stephen's Square covers about 4,500 square metres and is the largest square in Dalmatia; it was fully paved in 1780 after the old bay was filled in. On the square stand St Stephen's Cathedral, built in stages in the 16th and 17th centuries, and the Arsenal, on whose first floor the Hvar Theatre opened in 1612. The island grows olives, vines, lavender and rosemary, and in early summer the lavender fields turn purple. The fortress site above town goes back to an Illyrian settlement and a Byzantine citadel of around the 6th century. Seeking protection from pirates, the townspeople turned to Venice, and from 1282 the present fortress was built with income from the sale of salt; it was largely finished by 1551. In 1579 lightning ignited the powder magazine, badly damaging the fortress and the town, and many of the town's public buildings date from the rebuilding that followed. Under Venetian rule Hvar was a Venetian naval base and an important shipping centre, and the Arsenal was originally a galley shipyard.
Local customs
Walk up the stone steps from the main square to the fortress for sunset. Take a boat to the bays of the Pakleni Islands for a swim. In early summer, see the lavender in villages such as Velo Grablje. In the evening, stroll the seaside promenade and watch yachts come and go in the harbour from a café.
Etiquette & taboos
Etiquette & taboos
Don’t DON'T
- Entering churches in swimwear
- climbing over the fortress railings
- wasting fresh water
- swimming in no-swimming zones
Locals appreciate DO
- Cover your shoulders and knees and keep quiet in churches
- wear non-slip shoes for the fortress
- use water sparingly
- swim only where swimming is allowed
Plan your visit
Practical info
Travel tips
- In summer there are many yachts and visitors, so book accommodation and boat tickets in advance. The steps up to the fortress are steep
- if you are less mobile, you can get a ride to below the fortress and walk the rest. Lavender blooms roughly in early summer, varying by year, and the island's lavender festival follows the dates announced each year.
- During the tourist season (roughly early April to mid-October), fast catamarans run daily between Split and Hvar town, taking about an hour. On the island you can rent a car or take buses to the villages, with more services in summer
- reaching the Pakleni Islands requires a small boat or a local boat tour. May to September is the main season, with warm sea water
- spring and autumn are quieter and good for hiking and cycling
- in winter many restaurants and boat services scale back, so confirm in advance.
Photos
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