Labrang Monastery

Background

Labrang Monastery stands in Labrang Town, Xiahe County, Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Gansu, in the traditional Tibetan area of Amdo, on the Daxia River, a tributary of the Yellow River; the monastery complex occupies the western part of the town. Xiahe is about four hours by car from Lanzhou. The monastery was founded in 1709 by the first Jamyang Zhepa, Ngawang Tsondru, and is one of the six great monasteries of the Gelug school. It has 18 halls, 6 colleges, a gilded stupa and a debating courtyard, and holds nearly 60000 scriptures; its white walls and gilded roofs blend Tibetan and Indian vihara styles. The monastery also has a Buddhist museum with a large collection of Buddha statues, scriptures and murals. Labrang lies where the Tibetan and Mongolian cultures meet and was once one of the largest Buddhist monastic universities; in the early 20th century it was the largest and most influential monastery in Amdo, and at its height it housed about 4000 monks. Each year, great ceremonies are held in the first month of the Tibetan calendar and in summer, with the unveiling of a giant Buddha image, chanting, prayer and scripture debates; the exact dates follow the calendar.

Local customs

• In the early morning, join the pilgrims walking clockwise around the circuit outside the monastery
• visit the great assembly hall and the gilded stupa
• if monks are debating, watch quietly from outside the debating courtyard
• stroll the Tibetan-style lanes around the monastery, where you can buy Tibetan-language books, Tibetan calendars and crafts.

Travel tips

• A visit takes about half a day, and ticket prices for some halls are as officially announced by the scenic area. Xiahe is on a high plateau, and new arrivals may feel altitude sickness such as headaches and shortness of breath, so take things slowly, avoid strenuous activity and bring warm clothing.
• From Lanzhou, take a long-distance bus to Xiahe, a journey of about four hours
• the monastery is on the western side of the town and can be reached on foot. You can visit in any season
• it is liveliest during the ceremonies of the first Tibetan month and of summer, and in winter there are fewer visitors.