Mount Heng

Background

Mount Heng is in Nanyue District, Hengyang, Hunan. It is the Southern Peak (Nanyue) of the Five Great Mountains and should not be confused with Mount Heng in Shanxi, the Northern Peak. The range runs about 150 km from north to south, from Huiyan Peak in Hengyang to Yuelu Mountain in Changsha, and is traditionally said to have 72 peaks. The highest, Zhurong Peak, is about 1,300 m and is topped by the Zhurong Hall, built in the Ming dynasty. Forest covers about 67% of the mountain; a provincial nature reserve was set up in 1984 and upgraded to national level in 2005. At the foot of the mountain, the Grand Temple of Mount Heng covers more than 98,500 m² and is described as the largest temple complex in southern China. Its main hall is modeled on the Hall of Supreme Harmony in Beijing's Forbidden City, earning it the nickname "the little Forbidden City south of the Yangtze." When the temple was first built is unknown, but records mention construction in 725, during the Kaiyuan era of the Tang. Eight Taoist temples line its east side and eight Buddhist temples its west, reflecting how the two faiths share the mountain. Mount Heng is one of the birthplaces of the Nanyue and Qingyuan lineages of Chan Buddhism. The mountain is home to Fangguang Temple, founded in the Liang dynasty of the Southern Dynasties, and to Fuyan Temple and the Sutra Hall, associated with the monk Huisi. The Southern Song scholar Zhu Xi lectured here with Zhang Shi, and Han Yu and many other famous figures climbed Zhurong Peak. Mount Heng is also known as the Mountain of Longevity.

Local customs

• Enter the mountain from the Grand Temple and reach Zhurong Peak by shuttle bus and cable car or on the stone steps to see the sunrise and the sea of clouds
• seek out the quiet of the Sutra Hall, Fangguang Temple and Fuyan Temple
• fit hikers can walk the whole way, about 5 to 8 hours round trip
• after coming down, try vegetarian food in Nanyue old town.

Travel tips

• Allow one to two days. The summit is much colder than the base and fog is frequent, so bring a warm jacket and rain gear. For admission, shuttle buses, cable cars and the separately ticketed Grand Temple, follow the official announcements. Wear non-slip shoes for the climb, and check the last cable car and shuttle bus times in advance.
• Take a high-speed train to Hengyang East or Hengshan West, then a bus or taxi to Nanyue District
• there are also direct coaches from Changsha. Every season has its appeal: spring flowers, summer seas of clouds, autumn colors and winter rime and snow. Clouds are most likely when the sky clears after rain.