Nanzen-ji

Background

Nanzen-ji stands in Nanzenji Fukuchi-cho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto. Its mountain name is Zuiryu-san, it was formerly called Zenrin-ji, and it is the head temple of the Nanzen-ji school of Rinzai Zen. The precincts are a nationally designated Historic Site, and the Hojo garden is a Place of Scenic Beauty. In 1291 Emperor Kameyama founded the temple on the site of his former detached palace, with Mukan Fumon as its founding priest. Nanzen-ji is not one of the Kyoto Five Mountains but stands at the head of the Gozan system; after Shokoku-ji was completed in 1386, Nanzen-ji was placed above all the others as the "First Temple of the Land". The temple burned in 1393, 1447 and 1467 and was rebuilt in 1597; by one account it burned again in 1895 and was rebuilt in 1909. The Sanmon gate was first built in the 13th century, torn down on government orders in 1369 and rebuilt in 1628, and you can climb to its upper storey for views over Kyoto. The Hojo (abbot's quarters, also called Seiryo-den) was a gift from Emperor Go-Yozei and is a National Treasure, with gold-ground screen paintings including tigers by Kano Tan'yu; the dry landscape garden in front of it, made by Kobori Enshu in the 17th century, is about 70 percent gravel. The Suirokaku aqueduct, completed in 1890, runs through the grounds carrying irrigation water from the Lake Biwa Canal and is now a popular photo spot.

Local customs

• Climb to the upper storey of the Sanmon gate for views over Kyoto
• sit quietly by the Hojo garden admiring its stones and the Kano-school screen paintings
• take photos along the Suirokaku aqueduct
• in the autumn foliage season, stroll the grounds and continue to nearby Eikan-do.

Travel tips

• The grounds are free
• the Sanmon gate, the Hojo garden and Nanzen-in each charge separately, with fees and opening hours as officially announced
• the foliage season is crowded, so early mornings or weekdays are best. It is a walk from Keage Station on the Tozai subway line
• you can also take a bus from Kyoto Station to the Nanzen-ji area and walk, or come on foot from the Gion and Heian Shrine areas.
• Autumn foliage is at its finest, spring cherry blossoms and fresh greenery are lovely, summer's green maples feel cool, and in winter the garden after snow has a charm of its own.