Onomichi

Background

Onomichi lies in Onomichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture, its streets spread along the north shore of the Onomichi Channel with Mount Senkō-ji behind. From the mountain you can see the channel, Mukaishima across the water and the islands of the Seto Inland Sea. A hillside old-temple walk links Senkō-ji Park, the Path of Literature (Bungaku no Komichi) and Neko-no-Hosomichi (Cat Alley), and the Onomichi Hondōri shopping street below keeps a retro feel. Onomichi escaped wartime destruction, and temples large and small are still scattered through the town, which is why it is called the "Little Kyoto of the West." Along the stone-paved old-temple route, seven temples — Jikō-ji, Tennei-ji, Senkō-ji, Daisen-ji, Saikoku-ji, Jōdo-ji and Kairyū-ji — make up the Onomichi Seven Buddhas pilgrimage. Senkō-ji belongs to the Shingon tradition; according to temple tradition, it was founded in 806 (Daidō 1). Senkō-ji Park holds the Onomichi City Museum of Art and the Path of Literature. The path is a footpath from the summit down past Senkō-ji, where 25 literary monuments carved on natural boulders honor writers connected with Onomichi, including Shiga Naoya and Hayashi Fumiko. The summit observation deck, PEAK, is an elevated walkway about 63 meters long. The Onomichi Channel area is part of the Japan Heritage story "Onomichi Channel: A Miniature Garden City Woven Since the Middle Ages." The Setouchi Shimanami Kaidō is the Nishi-Seto Expressway. It starts at the Nishi-Seto Onomichi Interchange in Onomichi and runs via Mukaishima, Innoshima, Ikuchijima, Ōmishima, Hakatajima and Ōshima to Imabari in Ehime Prefecture, 59.4 kilometers in all.

Local customs

Ride the Mount Senkō-ji Ropeway up to the summit deck, then walk down via the Path of Literature, Senkō-ji and Neko-no-Hosomichi. Follow part of the old-temple route, stopping at temples such as Tennei-ji with its three-story pagoda. Browse the Onomichi Hondōri shopping street and have a bowl of Onomichi ramen. If you have time, rent a bicycle in Onomichi and ride the first stretch of the Shimanami Kaidō toward Mukaishima.

Travel tips

• You will be on foot most of the time, so wear comfortable walking shoes
• the slopes are steep, with many stone steps that get slippery in the rain. Summer sun is strong and winter sea winds are cold, so dress for the season. For ropeway and temple fees and hours, check official and on-site notices.
• Take the JR San'yō Main Line to Onomichi Station
• the town center and the ropeway's lower station are within walking distance. By Shinkansen, get off at Shin-Onomichi Station and continue by bus or taxi. Drivers join the Shimanami Kaidō at the Nishi-Seto Onomichi Interchange on the Honshu side
• check official notices for routes and road conditions. Cherry blossoms in Senkō-ji Park are the signature of spring, autumn leaves are also fine, and winter brings fewer visitors
• blossom and foliage timing varies by year.