Zhengding Ancient Town and Longxing Temple

Background

Zhengding Ancient Town lies in Zhengding County, Shijiazhuang, Hebei Province, about 15 km north of downtown Shijiazhuang. From the Sui to the Qing dynasty it was an important Buddhist centre, and in and around the town Longxing Temple survives along with four pagodas of different styles: the Lingxiao Pagoda of Tianning Temple, the Xumi Pagoda of Kaiyuan Temple, the Flower Pagoda of Guanghui Temple and the Chengling Pagoda of Linji Temple. The bell tower of Kaiyuan Temple is the only surviving Tang dynasty bell tower. Longxing Temple was founded in the sixth year of the Kaihuang era of the Sui dynasty (586) as Longcang Temple; its Sui-era Longcang Temple Stele is a celebrated work in the history of Chinese calligraphy. In the fourth year of the Kaibao era of the Northern Song (971), Emperor Taizu ordered the bronze Guanyin of Dabei Pavilion to be cast and the temple expanded, renaming it Longxing ("Rising Dragon") Temple; after two more expansions under the Qing Kangxi and Qianlong emperors, it took its present name, Longxing ("Prosperity") Temple. The temple faces south, with its halls and pavilions set one after another along a central axis. Known as the "Best Temple South of Beijing", it is now a Major Historical and Cultural Site Protected at the National Level. The bronze Thousand-Armed, Thousand-Eyed Guanyin in Dabei Pavilion is 21.3 metres tall, with 42 arms representing the thousand hands; because of it, locals call Longxing Temple the "Big Buddha Temple". Dabei Pavilion has been rebuilt many times, and the building you see today is a 1999 reconstruction in Song style. Moni Hall, built in the fourth year of the Huangyou era of the Northern Song (1052), has a double-eaved hip-and-gable roof with a porch projecting from each of its four sides, a unique form; inside are fine murals, and on the north wall a painted Guanyin sits in a relaxed pose with a warm, gentle expression. The octagonal revolving sutra cabinet in Zhuanlunzang Pavilion is a rotating wooden bookcase, the oldest surviving example of its kind. A Hebei saying runs, "Cangzhou lions, Dingzhou pagoda, Zhengding Bodhisattva": the Zhengding Bodhisattva is this bronze Guanyin of Longxing Temple, which, together with the Iron Lion of Cangzhou, the Liaodi Pagoda of Dingzhou and Zhaozhou Bridge, makes up the "Four Treasures of Hebei".

Local customs

• Start by paying your respects to the bronze Thousand-Armed Guanyin in Dabei Pavilion, then look closely at the painted Guanyin and murals on the north wall of Moni Hall and see the revolving sutra cabinet in Zhuanlunzang Pavilion. Next, climb Changle Gate's tower for a view over the ancient town, and walk on to Kaiyuan Temple's Xumi Pagoda and bell tower, Guanghui Temple's Flower Pagoda and Linji Temple
• you can also stop by the Rongguo Mansion, built for filming "A Dream of Red Mansions". In the evening, try Zhengding's Eight Bowls and other local snacks around the Nanguan night market.

Travel tips

• Longxing Temple and the sights of the ancient town are within walking distance of each other
• allow half a day to a full day. For admission, go by the official rates. In summer, protect yourself from the sun and keep hydrated
• in winter the ancient town is windy, so dress warmly. Some halls are dimly lit, so mind the steps underfoot when taking pictures.
• From downtown Shijiazhuang, a bus or taxi to Zhengding takes about half an hour. You can also take a high-speed train to Shijiazhuang Station or Zhengding Airport Station and transfer by bus or taxi. By car, take the Beijing-Hong Kong-Macao Expressway to the Zhengding exit
• there are car parks around the ancient town. Spring and autumn are mild and best for exploring the town on foot
• in summer you can combine your visit with the night market, and in winter there are fewer visitors and you can take your time, but dress warmly.