Byodo-in (Uji)

Background

Byōdō-in stands on the west bank of the Uji River in Uji City. The Phoenix Hall is one of the largest surviving Heian-period buildings in Japan and almost the only surviving structure of the Fujiwara regency era; seen from the front, the central hall with its left and right wing corridors and tail corridor forms the shape of a phoenix with outspread wings, and the pair of phoenix statues on the roof gave it its name. The seated Amida Nyorai inside is a National Treasure, and the Hōshōkan museum holds National Treasure-class objects including the original phoenix statues and the temple bell. The site was originally Uji-dono, a villa of Fujiwara no Michinaga. In 1052 his son Fujiwara no Yorimichi converted it into a temple, and in 1053 the Amida Hall — later known as the Phoenix Hall — was completed. The building and garden follow the Pure Land vision of the Western Paradise: the main hall stands on an island in the pond facing east, symbolizing the Paradise lying to the west across the water. In 1994 Byōdō-in was inscribed on the World Heritage List as part of the Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto; both the Phoenix Hall and the Amida statue inside it are National Treasures.

Local customs

• First view the Phoenix Hall and its reflection from the front, on the Aji Pond side
• then enter as arranged on site to see the seated Amida Nyorai and the painted interior, and afterwards visit the Hōshōkan for the original phoenix statues and the bell. After leaving, you can taste Uji matcha sweets along the Byōdō-in Omotesandō approach and visit the Uji River and the Uji Shrine area on the opposite bank.

Travel tips

• Places for the Phoenix Hall interior visit are limited and arranged separately
• check the official site for admission, how the interior visit works and opening hours. Mornings are recommended to avoid the midday crowds
• if the queue for the interior is long, see the gardens and the Hōshōkan first.
• From Kyoto Station, take the JR Nara Line to JR Uji Station or the Keihan Line to Keihan Uji Station
• Byōdō-in is about a 10-minute walk from either. From Keihan Uji Station, cross Uji Bridge and walk along the Byōdō-in Omotesandō approach. Wisteria and cherry blossoms in spring and autumn foliage reflected in the pond are the usual highlights
• the Uji riverside is relatively cool in summer, and winter brings fewer visitors and quieter visits. Exact blossom times vary from year to year.