Kakinoha-zushi (persimmon-leaf sushi)

Background

Kakinoha-zushi is sushi made by topping bite-sized vinegared rice with slices of mackerel or salmon, wrapping it in a persimmon leaf and pressing it; it is a local dish of Nara and Wakayama prefectures. According to Japanese Wikipedia, it is generally thought to have originated in the Edo period around the upper reaches of the Kinokawa River: one theory holds that fishermen in Kishu carried mackerel stuffed with salt up the river to sell in Yamato, and since it was too salty on arrival, it was sliced thin and eaten with rice. At first it resembled narezushi, and only after brewed vinegar became widespread in the mid-Edo period did it switch to vinegared rice. Persimmon leaves are said to have an antibacterial effect, so wrapped sushi keeps for several days, and the leaves' aroma seeps into the sushi. Salmon kakinoha-zushi appeared only in the Meiji period, and today mackerel and salmon are the standard pair. Junichiro Tanizaki also praised it in his essay "In Praise of Shadows."

Local customs

• Peel off the persimmon leaf before eating—the leaf is not eaten
• most pieces are bite-sized and can simply be eaten with your hands. They are often bought as souvenirs or as a station bento
• pick up a box before or after a walk in Nara Park and sit down to eat it. When buying loose pieces, you can choose a few each of different flavors such as mackerel, salmon and sea bream.

Religion & beliefs

• Kakinoha-zushi was originally an indispensable feast for festivals and celebrations around Gojo and Yoshino, and the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries also describes it as a delicacy of summer festivals
• it is not itself a religious food. The Yoshino and Omine area has long been frequented by Shugendo practitioners and pilgrims, and kakinoha-zushi was also passed down as a packed lunch for the pilgrimage road.

Rules that apply here

Travel tips

• Several kakinoha-zushi shops are around Nara Station, Kintetsu Nara Station and Higashimuki Shopping Street, and it is also sold at major Kintetsu and JR stations
• buy a box and eat it indoors or on a bench in ten minutes or so. It can be combined with Todai-ji, Kasuga Taisha and Naramachi. The Yoshino and Gojo area is the traditional production region, and you can also buy it when viewing cherry blossoms on Mount Yoshino. Dietary notes: the main ingredient is raw mackerel or salmon cured with salt and vinegar, not fully cooked, so pregnant women and people with weakened immunity should take care
• mackerel is a common allergen and may carry anisakis parasites, so people with sensitive stomachs may prefer salmon or other flavors. Prices and opening hours are as set by each shop
• popular old shops often have queues, so going off-peak is more relaxed.