Old City of Jerusalem

Background

The old city is divided by population and faith into four quarters: the Muslim Quarter is the largest in area and its markets the densest, with teahouses and sweet shops strung together; the Christian Quarter gathers around the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, full of churches, monasteries and pilgrims' hospices; the Jewish Quarter was rebuilt in the second half of the 20th century, its lanes comparatively orderly, with the Western Wall Plaza and remains of the ancient Roman street (the Cardo); the Armenian Quarter is the quietest, one of the world's oldest Armenian diaspora communities, its residents largely descendants of craftsmen and clergy. There are no walls between the four quarters — a few steps change the language, the scents in the air and the calendar in use.

Local customs

• The old city's calendar is three religions' festivals stacked together: at the Jewish Passover and Sukkot the Western Wall Plaza is packed shoulder to shoulder
• in Christian Holy Week and Easter, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre holds the famous Holy Fire ceremony, and the processions of the various denominations crowd the lanes
• during Islamic Ramadan the markets are quiet by day, and after sunset the Muslim Quarter's night market blazes with lights and the sweet stalls draw long queues. Check the three faiths' festival calendars before travelling — crowded and quiet are two completely different old cities.

Religion & beliefs

The holy sites of the three monotheistic religions — Judaism, Christianity and Islam — coexist within the same ring of walls: Judaism holds the Temple Mount and the Western Wall most sacred, Christianity holds the Church of the Holy Sepulchre as the core of its faith, and Islam holds the Noble Sanctuary (the Temple Mount) as its third holiest site. In addition, the Armenian Apostolic Church, the Greek Orthodox Church, the Coptic Church, the Syriac Church and many other denominations all maintain sanctuaries and residences in the old city — a density of religious diversity rarely matched anywhere in the world.

Travel tips

• The Temple Mount (to Muslims, the "Noble Sanctuary") can be entered by non-Muslim visitors only through the Mughrabi Gate beside the wooden bridge, after security screening, along a designated route only
• visiting hours are limited and it is usually closed to visitors on Fridays and Saturdays
• non-Muslims may not enter the Dome of the Rock or Al-Aqsa Mosque — on-site announcements prevail in all cases
• The Sabbath lasts from Friday sunset to Saturday sunset: photography and the use of electronic devices are prohibited at the Western Wall Plaza, and most shops in the Jewish Quarter close — plan your itinerary off-peak
• Security checkpoints stand at the old city's entrances and main holy sites
• carry your documents with you, cooperate with the checks, and allow queuing time
• The old city itself is free to enter on foot
• the main entrances are the Jaffa Gate on the west and the Damascus Gate on the north, with light-rail and bus stops outside the walls. Individual sites are mostly free to enter (the Western Wall Plaza, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre)
• charged attractions such as the Tower of David Museum follow their own official websites. Allow at least a full day: use the morning for the Temple Mount during its visiting window (queue early for security screening), and spend the rest of the time walking the four quarters to link the Western Wall, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the markets. From Friday afternoon Jewish Quarter shops progressively close
• Temple Mount visiting arrangements change more during Ramadan — check the latest official information before travelling and follow the directions of on-duty personnel on site.
• The international status of the Old City of Jerusalem is disputed
• following the practice of most travel guides, this site lists it under Israel, which does not imply any position on sovereignty.