Karlovy Vary

Background

Karlovy Vary lies in western Bohemia, Czech Republic, where the Teplá meets the Ohře, a little over 100 kilometres west of Prague. Its five spa colonnades each have their own style: the Mill Colonnade is the largest, designed by Josef Zítek and built from 1871 to 1881; the Hot Spring Colonnade shelters the hottest spring in the country, at about 73°C, which shoots up to about 12 metres; and there are also the Park, Market and Castle colonnades. Pastel spa buildings, spa wafers and Becherovka, the herbal liqueur made here since 1807, are the town's calling cards. The town was founded around the mid-14th century, and its name means "Charles's Baths", after Charles IV, King of Bohemia and Holy Roman Emperor. Peter the Great visited in 1711, Goethe studied the local geology here, and Beethoven came for treatment. In the 19th century, with the arrival of the railway, it grew into one of Europe's famous spa resorts, and most of the colonnades and grand hotels you see today date from the second half of the 19th century to the early 20th century. In 2021 Karlovy Vary was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List as part of the Great Spa Towns of Europe.

Local customs

Walk along the valley from one colonnade to the next, tasting springs of different temperatures and mineral content with your spa cup. Ride the funicular up the hill and climb the Diana Observation Tower for a view over the valley and the coloured rooftops. Visit the Moser glassworks and the old-town shops, and try a freshly baked spa wafer.

Travel tips

• The water is warm, salty and highly mineralised. Follow the official on-site guidance on how much to drink and how, and consult a doctor first if you have a sensitive stomach or are undergoing treatment. Filling your cup at the springs is free
• spa cups are sold in shops near the colonnades, or you can use an ordinary cup. Check official information in advance for spa treatments and accommodation.
• Coaches from Prague take a little over two hours, trains take more than three hours because the line winds through the hills, and driving takes under two hours. In town you can walk along the valley to the main colonnades, and reach the Diana Observation Tower by funicular or on forest paths. The town can be visited all year, and spa treatments are not season-bound
• in spring and summer the valley is green and ideal for walks, and after snow in winter the spa town has a special charm, with more events around Christmas.