Kumano Kodo

Background

The Kumano Kodo is a network of pilgrimage routes across the Kii Peninsula, spanning Wakayama, Mie and Nara Prefectures, with the Kumano Sanzan (Kumano Hongū Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha) as its core destinations. The Nakahechi, Iseji, Ōhechi, Kohechi and other routes each follow a different course, and Ōji shrines and other small subsidiary shrine sites are scattered along the way. Daimon-zaka, about 600 meters long with 267 stone steps, is flanked by ancient cedar forest and climbs to Kumano Nachi Taisha and Seiganto-ji; Nachi Falls framed with the three-storey pagoda of Seiganto-ji is the trail's signature view. Together with Yoshino-Ōmine and Kōyasan, the Kumano Kodo forms the "Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range," inscribed on the World Heritage List on 7 July 2004. The property reflects the long fusion of Shinto and Buddhism in the Kii Mountains, and emperors, aristocrats and commoners alike made the journey to Kumano. The Kumano Kodo and the Camino de Santiago are described as the only two pilgrimage routes on the World Heritage List, and the two share a "Dual Pilgrim" recognition: after walking the required sections of both routes, you can register at a designated office and receive a commemorative pin badge; exact criteria and registration locations are subject to official announcements.

Local customs

• With limited time, first walk the short Daimon-zaka section, climbing the stone steps from the foot of the mountain to Kumano Nachi Taisha and Seiganto-ji, then descending to Nachi Falls
• with more stamina and time, walk the Nakahechi or another long route in stages, staying overnight in post towns and collecting pilgrimage stamps
• hot-spring villages along the routes make good rest stops, but accommodation must be booked in advance.

Travel tips

• The trails are mountain routes
• some sections are steep, with slippery stone steps, so wear hiking shoes and bring rain gear and water. Supply points and accommodation are limited, so plan lodging and luggage forwarding in advance for long routes. Mountain weather changes quickly
• in heavy rain or typhoon warnings, do not force your way into the mountains, and check official announcements for trail conditions. Shrine and temple visits are mostly free or charge a small fee
• exact amounts are subject to official announcements.
• For the Nakahechi, take JR to Kii-Tanabe Station, then a bus to trailheads such as Takijiri-ōji
• for the Nachi area, take JR to Kii-Katsuura Station, then a bus to Daimon-zaka or Nachi-san
• for the Iseji, head south along the east coast from the Ise direction. Buses are infrequent everywhere, so plan ahead with the official timetable for the day. Spring greenery and autumn foliage are the best seasons for walking
• summer is hot, humid and rainy, with slippery paths and many insects, so start early and carry plenty of water
• in winter some high sections may have snow or ice
• Nachi Falls can be seen all year, with its flow varying with rainfall.