Kumbum Monastery (Ta'er Monastery)

Background

Kumbum Monastery stands in Lusar Town, Huangzhong District, Xining. It is one of the six great monasteries of the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism and the birthplace of Tsongkhapa, the school's founder. In broad outline, his mother's family first built a small stupa at his birthplace; a small temple for practice was built around 1560; and around 1583, at the urging of the Third Dalai Lama, it was enlarged into a great monastery called Kumbum Jampa Ling. Sources differ on the exact years. The monastery has four colleges: Exoteric Studies, Tantra, Kalachakra and Medicine. Its buildings climb the hillside in a blend of Han and Tibetan styles, with the Great Golden Tile Hall among the most important; its murals, appliqué thangkas and butter sculptures are called the “Three Artistic Wonders”, and it holds large collections of Buddhist scriptures and works on history, philosophy and medicine. In 1961 Kumbum was listed in the first batch of Major Historical and Cultural Sites Protected at the National Level, and it is now a national 5A scenic area.

Local customs

• You can visit the Great Golden Tile Hall, the Small Golden Tile Hall, the Great Assembly Hall and other halls from the bottom up (depending on what is open that day)
• see the murals, appliqué thangkas and butter sculptures on display
• and learn about the Gelug college system and the life of Tsongkhapa from the exhibitions. The Butter Lamp Festival on the 15th day of the first lunar month is a traditional festival
• check the monastery's and scenic area's announcements for each year's arrangements.

Travel tips

• The monastery climbs a hillside with many halls and steps, so wear comfortable shoes and allow about half a day. Even in summer, Xining's days and nights differ greatly in temperature, so bring a jacket
• it is crowded in peak season, so try to avoid busy times
• some halls may close temporarily for ceremonies or repairs, as announced on site. Some sources say photography is prohibited inside the monastery
• check on-site signs for the exact rules. From downtown Xining, buses, tourist lines or hired cars to Lusar Town in Huangzhong District are all common, taking roughly half an hour to an hour depending on traffic
• routes, schedules and fares follow official announcements.
• You can visit in any season
• summer is cool and best for visiting
• winter on the plateau is cold and dry, so dress warmly. The Butter Lamp Festival around the 15th day of the first lunar month draws big crowds, so confirm opening arrangements in advance.