Qiao and Wang Family Compounds

Background

Both compounds are in Jinzhong, Shanxi Province. The Qiao Family Compound stands in Qiaojiabao Village, Qi County, about 30 km northeast of Pingyao; the Wang Family Compound stands in Jingsheng Village, Lingshi County, to the southwest of Pingyao. The two are about an hour's drive apart. The Qiao Family Compound, originally named Zaizhong Hall, was the family home of Qiao Zhiyong (1818–1907), a Shanxi merchant financier. Construction began in the 21st year of the Qianlong era of the Qing dynasty (1756). It covers about 9,000 square metres, with 6 large courtyards, 19 smaller ones and 313 rooms in all, enclosed by high walls; seen from above, its layout is said to form the character 囍 (double happiness). The Qiao family was known for its piaohao (draft banks) and other financial businesses and became representative Shanxi merchants. The Wang Family Compound was built by the Wang family of Lingshi, mainly between the Kangxi and Jiaqing reigns of the Qing dynasty. Set against the hillside in layered tiers, it is often called the "Folk Forbidden City". According to English Wikipedia, the complex covers about 8 hectares with 231 courtyards and 2,078 rooms (counts vary by source); the scenic area opens sections including Gaojiaya and Hongmenbao. In 2008 it was placed on China's tentative list for World Heritage as part of the "Ancient Residences in Shanxi and Shaanxi Provinces". Both compounds stress central-axis symmetry, courtyards within courtyards and gate after gate, with brick, wood and stone carvings everywhere. A local saying goes: "For imperial architecture, see the Forbidden City; for private homes, see the Qiao family."

Local customs

At the Qiao Family Compound, look at the courtyard layout, the big red lanterns and the carved brick screen walls. At the Wang Family Compound, climb high to look over the courtyard clusters of Gaojiaya and Hongmenbao, and compare the refinement of one with the grandeur of the other. Visit the merchant-culture exhibition halls in both compounds to learn about piaohao, counting houses and trade routes, and stay overnight in Pingyao Ancient City to link all three into one trip.

Travel tips

• The two compounds are about an hour's drive apart
• allow two to three hours for each. They get crowded in peak season, and the Qiao Family Compound's courtyards are small, so it is best to go at off-peak times. Paths are mostly stone slabs, so wear flat shoes. For tickets, go by the official rates.
• Both compounds can be reached from Pingyao Ancient City by taxi or tourist shuttle. From Taiyuan, take a high-speed train to Pingyao Ancient City Station and transfer to a bus. Drivers can take the Beijing-Kunming Expressway to the Qi County and Lingshi exits
• both sites have car parks at the entrance. Spring and autumn are best, with dry, pleasant weather and good light for photographing the courtyards. In summer the courtyards are shady but afternoons are hot. In winter the grey bricks and dark tiles look especially atmospheric after snow, and there are fewer visitors.