Sarajevo Old Town

Background

Sarajevo Old Town lies in the Stari Grad district of Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, and stretches along the Miljacka River. Its core is the old Baščaršija bazaar: the wooden Sebilj Fountain stands in the centre of the square, workshops on the coppersmiths' street still hammer copperware by hand, and the courtyard of the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque has an ablution fountain, with a clock tower nearby. The old bazaar dates back to 1462, when it was founded by the Ottoman governor Isa-Beg Ishaković; its name comes from Turkish and means "main market". By the 16th century it had around 80 craft streets named after their trades, such as the coppersmiths', saddlers' and goldsmiths' streets. After repeated earthquakes and fires (above all the fire of 1879), by the end of the 19th century the bazaar had shrunk to roughly half its 16th-century size, and the surviving core is concentrated around the Sebilj Fountain. The Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque was funded by Gazi Husrev-beg, the Ottoman governor of Bosnia; construction began in 1530 and was completed in 1531. Its architect is generally thought to be Acem Esir Ali, of Persian ancestry, though the documentary evidence is thin. It is the largest historical mosque in Bosnia and Herzegovina and one of the most representative Ottoman buildings in the Balkans; the religious and civic complex built around it also included a madrasa, a public kitchen for the poor, a clock tower, the founder's mausoleum and a covered market. The Sebilj Fountain was first built in 1753 by the Ottoman governor Mehmed Pasha Kukavica and was later destroyed by fire; the present wooden structure was rebuilt in 1891 by the architect Alexander Wittek. The Latin Bridge is an Ottoman-era stone bridge over the Miljacka; its northern end is the spot where Archduke Franz Ferdinand, heir to the Austro-Hungarian throne, was assassinated on 28 June 1914, an event that set off the July Crisis and ultimately led to the outbreak of the First World War. A memorial plaque now stands by the bridge. Sarajevo is sometimes called the "Jerusalem of Europe": mosques, Orthodox churches, Catholic churches and a synagogue stand close together in the old town.

Local customs

• Start at the Sebilj Fountain and head first to the coppersmiths' street to watch craftsmen hammer copper trays and coffee sets on the spot, then walk west along Sarači Street
• step into the courtyard of the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque to see its ablution fountain and clock tower
• go to the northern end of the Latin Bridge to see the memorial plaque
• sit down in an old coffee house for a cup of Bosnian coffee
• and feed the pigeons in the square beside the Sebilj Fountain.

Travel tips

• The old town core is best explored on foot, and the cobblestones are uneven, so please wear flat, non-slip shoes. For mosques and some indoor sights, please follow the officially published opening arrangements. The summer sun is strong, so bring water and sun protection. In winter the pavements may ice over and the cobblestones are especially slippery after snow, so watch your step. When the bazaar is crowded, keep valuables close to you and watch your bag.
• The old town lies in the city centre
• trams run to its edge, and from there you can walk into the bazaar. From elsewhere in the city you can also take a taxi or a bus
• please check the latest local route information. If you are driving, park in a car park on the edge of the old town, as the core is not suitable for driving through. Late spring and early autumn bring mild weather and the liveliest bazaar, making them the best times for walking
• summer days are hot, so go out in the morning or evening
• winter is colder, but the old town's coffee houses and indoor sights remain open as usual.