Toledo

Background

Toledo, nicknamed the "Imperial City" (La ciudad Imperial) and also called the "City of Three Cultures" (Ciudad de las Tres Culturas), is the capital of the province of Toledo in Castilla-La Mancha, Spain; its old town sits in a bend on the north bank of the Tagus. The Gothic cathedral is the Primate Cathedral of Spain; the hilltop Alcázar overlooks the Tagus bend; the Synagogue of Santa María la Blanca and the Synagogue of El Tránsito bear witness to Jewish history; the Church of Santo Tomé holds El Greco's masterpiece The Burial of the Count of Orgaz; and the Bisagra Gate, the Alcántara Bridge and the San Martín Bridge are all old-town landmarks. Sword forging is a local traditional craft, today mostly producing souvenirs. Toledo began as a Carpetani settlement, was called Toletum in Roman times and later became the capital of the Visigothic kingdom; in the Islamic period it was called Tulaytulah, and in the early 11th century it became the center of the Taifa of Toledo. Alfonso VI took the city in 1085. Charles V's court was based here, and in 1561 the court moved to Madrid. In the Middle Ages Toledo was a translation center of Europe. In 1986 the Historic City of Toledo was inscribed on the World Heritage List. The "City of Three Cultures" label should be treated with caution: Christian, Muslim and Jewish cultures did meet here, but their coexistence was not always peaceful, and critics argue that the label romanticizes a more complex history marked by religious oppression.

Local customs

First go to the viewpoint across the river for a panorama of the old town and the Tagus bend, then enter the city on foot through the Bisagra Gate. Visit the cathedral, the Church of Santo Tomé and the two synagogues in turn. Leave time to browse sword workshops and craft shops, and head up to the Alcázar area to watch the sunset over the river bend.

Travel tips

• The main sights of the old town are within walking distance
• a day trip only lets you skim them, while staying overnight is more relaxed. From Madrid, trains or buses make a same-day return possible, and the old town is explored on foot once you arrive
• if driving, park outside the walls and walk in. Check opening hours and combined-ticket options on site and on the official websites.
• Spring and autumn are best, with mild weather and good light for photography. The Tagus valley is hot in summer, so be active in the morning and evening. Winter is cold and dry, with fewer visitors.