Yingxian Wooden Pagoda

Background

The pagoda stands inside Fogong Temple, northwest of Ying County town in Shuozhou, Shanxi Province. It reaches a total height of 67.31 metres, rising from a 4-metre stone terrace and topped by a finial of about 10 metres. It shows five storeys from outside, with four hidden storeys inside, making nine levels in all. Its bracket sets come in 54 kinds, the most of any Liao building, and the whole structure is held together by interlocking timber without iron nails. The pagoda was built in the second year of the Qingning era of Emperor Daozong of Liao (1056), on the site of the family home of Daozong's grandmother, and was repaired and extended in the sixth year of the Mingchang era of the Jin dynasty (1195). In 1961 it was listed in the first batch of Major Historical and Cultural Sites Protected at the National Level, and it is on China's tentative list for World Heritage. Over nearly a thousand years the pagoda has developed a lean and some twisting; for its protection, visitors are currently not allowed to climb it.

Local customs

Photograph the whole pagoda looking up from the square in front, and study the layered bracket sets under the first-storey eaves. When it is open, enter the ground floor to see the Liao Sakyamuni statue and murals. Walk around the pagoda to observe its octagonal plan and the iron chains of the finial, then visit the Mahavira Hall of Jingtu Temple in Ying County town to compare Liao and Jin architectural styles.

Travel tips

• Climbing the pagoda is not currently possible
• check on-site notices for which areas are open. Allow about an hour for the pagoda area. For tickets, go by the official rates. Dining and lodging in Ying County are limited, so you may want to combine the visit with Datong or Shuozhou.
• From downtown Datong, a long-distance bus takes about 1.5 hours to Ying County, then take a taxi to Fogong Temple
• from downtown Shuozhou the bus takes about 1 hour. Drivers can take the Erguang Expressway to the Ying County exit. Spring and autumn are best, with soft light for photographing the whole pagoda. In summer the square in front is open and sunny, so protect yourself from the sun. In winter there are few visitors and the pagoda looks striking after snow, but watch for icy roads.