Zenkō-ji

Background

Zenkō-ji stands in Motoyoshi-chō, Nagano City, Nagano Prefecture, at the northern end of the Omotesandō approach. Walk up the Nakamise street and through the Niōmon and Sanmon gates to reach the main hall, a National Treasure; inside is a statue of Binzuru-sonja that visitors rub as they pray, and you can climb to the upper floor of the Sanmon for the view. Zenkō-ji is a non-sectarian temple that belongs to no particular school, and it is jointly maintained by Daikanjin (Tendai school) and Daihongan (Pure Land school). The principal image, the Ikkō Sanzon Amida Nyorai, is a hidden Buddha that is not normally shown; what is displayed during the Gokaichō is its counterpart image, the Maedachi Honzon. According to the temple, Zenkō-ji has a history of about 1,400 years; temple tradition holds that the principal image was moved to its present site in 642, and that in 644 temple buildings were erected by imperial order and the name Zenkō-ji was given. Present-day Nagano City grew out of the temple town in front of Zenkō-ji. From the Edo period a saying circulated, "Ichigo ni ichido wa Zenkō-ji mairi" (visit Zenkō-ji at least once in your life), which shows its place as a centre of popular faith.

Local customs

Worship in the outer and inner sanctuaries of the main hall, and take the Kaidan Meguri: grope your way forward through a pitch-dark corridor and touch the Key to Paradise. You can also rub the statue of Binzuru-sonja, climb to the upper floor of the Sanmon gate for the view, sit in on the daily early-morning service, O-asaji, and then stroll the Nakamise and taste Nagano soba.

Travel tips

• The grounds are free to enter, while some areas such as the inner sanctuary of the main hall and the Kaidan Meguri require a separate ticket
• check the official site for fees. Crowds are extremely large during the Gokaichō, so check official notices before you go.
• From in front of Nagano Station you can take a bus to the Zenkō-ji Daimon stop, or walk from Nagano Station along the Omotesandō
• check official and station notices for timetables. Any season works, with spring cherry blossoms and autumn leaves especially fine. The Gokaichō is held "about once every seven years" by the traditional count (in practice every six years)
• check official notices for the next one.