Dali Old Town

Background

Dali Old Town was built in 1382, the 15th year of the Ming Hongwu reign, and its Bai courtyard houses with 'four wings and five courtyards' are well preserved. Outside the town, the main pagoda of the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple, the Qianxun Pagoda, is 69.13 m tall and dates from the Nanzhao period of the Tang dynasty — Dali's emblem. The area was the capital of the Nanzhao and Dali kingdoms and has long been known as a 'land of letters'.

Local customs

• The Bai welcome guests with the 'three-course tea' (first bitter, then sweet, then lingering)
• the Third Month Fair from the 15th day of the third lunar month is the great Bai temple fair. Tie-dye around Zhoucheng is a traditional craft, and Xizhou baba flatbread and ersi rice noodles are authentic tastes.

Religion & beliefs

• The Bai widely worship benzhu (village guardian deities), and Chongsheng Temple is Buddhist
• keep quiet in temples and walk clockwise around the pagodas.

Rules that apply here

Travel tips

• The old town is free
• the Three Pagodas scenic area has its own ticket. Rent an e-bike to ride around Erhai Lake (pick one stretch — the full loop is about 130 km)
• combine with Xizhou and Shuanglang
• take the Cangshan cable car on a clear day.