Lisbon charcoal-grilled sardines

Background

Chargrilled sardines are a traditional Portuguese dish, chosen as one of the "Seven Wonders of Portuguese Gastronomy". Portuguese Wikipedia explains that the Portuguese customarily grill sardines during popular festivals, and a chargrilled sardine feast is called a "sardinhada"; although they are usually called "assada" (roasted), they are actually grilled over charcoal on a grill, and the more accurate name is "sardinha na grelha". In Lisbon, sardines are inseparable from the Festas de Lisboa every June. Visit Lisboa explains that in June the most characterful old neighbourhoods, Alfama, Bica, Bairro Alto, Castelo and Mouraria, keep up the tradition of playing music in the streets and grilling sardines over charcoal; Visit Portugal explains that the climax comes on the night of 12 June, when people parade along Avenida da Liberdade to celebrate St Anthony, and on the 13th there is a religious procession around the cathedral, with the smell of grilled sardines and potted basil filling the streets.

Local customs

• Whole sardines, skin and bones included, are sprinkled with coarse salt and grilled, often served on a slice of bread or cornbread so the bread soaks up the fish oil
• they come with roasted green pepper salad, boiled potatoes and wine or beer. Use a knife and fork to peel the flesh off along the backbone, though some people simply use their hands.

Religion & beliefs

• The Festas de Lisboa are tied to the feast of St. Anthony (Anthony of Padua, who was born in Lisbon)
• around 13 June there are religious processions and a mass wedding, the "Brides of St. Anthony"
• St. Anthony is regarded as a "matchmaker saint," and people give each other pots of basil bearing love poems.

Travel tips

• During the Lisbon Festivities in June, old neighborhoods such as Alfama, Mouraria and Bica are full of grilled sardine stalls
• the night of 12 June is the liveliest and extremely crowded
• at other times you can also eat them in small restaurants and seafood houses in the old town, and a meal takes about an hour. You can combine it with São Jorge Castle, Lisbon Cathedral, the Church of St. Anthony and the Lisbon Museum – St. Anthony. Festival dates and events are as announced by Turismo de Lisboa. Dietary notes: sardines have many bones, so take care with children
• not suitable for those with fish allergies
• hygiene at street stalls varies, so choose freshly grilled hot food
• the accompanying wine and beer contain alcohol. Prices and opening hours are set by each restaurant
• popular old shops often have queues, so going outside peak mealtimes is more relaxed.