Faces on the stone towers of the Bayon

Bayon (Angkor Thom)

ប្រាសាទបាយ័ន Bayon · Siem Reap, Cambodia (centre of Angkor Thom)

Photo: Pedro Figueiredo · CC BY-SA 3.0

The state temple at the heart of Angkor Thom: dozens of stone towers carved with huge smiling faces — the 'smile of Angkor'.

Know before you go

  • Clothes must cover shoulders and knees, or you may be refused entry to some areas
  • don't climb or lean on carvings
  • don't touch the reliefs

This article is Not yet verified. Please check official announcements for prices, opening hours and dates.

Stories & people

Stories & people

History

Angkor Thom, rebuilt from the ruins

In 1177 the Cham king led a fleet up the Mekong, across the Tonlé Sap lake and up the Siem Reap River to the Khmer capital, sacking Angkor and killing its king. Between 1177 and 1181 Jayavarman VII, already in his fifties, led an army to drive out the Cham, and scenes of the naval battles are still carved on the walls of the Bayon. He then took the throne and rebuilt the capital, Angkor Thom, on the ruins, with the Bayon as the state temple, and built hospitals and roadside rest houses across the kingdom. He was the first Khmer king devoted to Buddhism, and the serene smiling faces on the Bayon's towers are often thought to be Avalokiteshvara — or perhaps the king himself.

Jayavarman VIIc. 1122–1218

Source: Wikipedia: Jayavarman VII; Wikipedia: Bayon

Culture

Culture & customs

Background

The Bayon is the state temple built by Jayavarman VII (c. 1122–1218) at the exact centre of Angkor Thom, the capital he rebuilt. In 1177 Cham forces captured and sacked Angkor; Jayavarman VII drove them out and took the throne around 1181, then embarked on a great building programme: the walls of Angkor Thom, the Bayon and many hospitals and rest houses. The first Khmer king devoted to Buddhism, he made the Bayon a Mahayana Buddhist temple. The huge faces on its towers are thought to represent Avalokiteshvara, or the king himself.

Local customs

  • Angkor is still a place where Cambodians worship, with monks and worshippers in the temples
  • walk quietly around people lighting incense before Buddha images

Religion & beliefs

Originally a Mahayana Buddhist temple, it later went through Hindu and Theravada Buddhist periods.

Etiquette

Etiquette & taboos

Rules that apply here

Red lineEveryday mannersCambodia

Cambodia: drugs, including cannabis, are a serious crime

  • Stay away from drugs of any kind
  • Possessing or trafficking any drugs

Can lead to a long prison sentence, up to life imprisonment.

Verified Oct 19, 2026Source: GOV.UK: Cambodia travel advice

Don’t DON'T

  • Clothes must cover shoulders and knees, or you may be refused entry to some areas
  • don't climb or lean on carvings
  • don't touch the reliefs
  • don't give money to begging children (it keeps them out of school)

Locals appreciate DO

Cambodians appreciate visitors who dress appropriately and don't climb the monuments.

Plan your visit

Practical info

Best timeMorning
Time needed1.5 hours

Travel tips

  • Entry is with the Angkor Pass, bought at the official ticket centre
  • morning light on the faces is best
  • combine on foot with Angkor Thom's south gate, the Terrace of the Elephants and Phimeanakas

Photos

Photos

Sources & verification notes

Wikipedia: Bayon

Wikipedia: Jayavarman VII

Wikipedia: Angkor Thom