Confucius Temple and the Qinhuai River, Nanjing

Background

The Confucius Temple was first built in 1034, the first year of the Song Jingyou era, to honour Confucius; the Jiangnan Examination Hall beside it was China's largest imperial examination site in the Ming and Qing dynasties, with more than 20,000 exam cells at its height. Tang Bohu, Zheng Banqiao, Wu Jingzi, Li Hongzhang and Zhang Jian all sat exams here, and Wu Jingzi's novel The Scholars drew heavily on Qinhuai life. The sound of oars and the reflections of lanterns on the Qinhuai were a symbol of Nanjing's elegance from the Six Dynasties to the Ming and Qing; today the Qinhuai Lantern Festival at Spring Festival is national intangible cultural heritage.

Local customs

• No Nanjing New Year is complete without the Qinhuai lanterns, and making and admiring lanterns is a craft passed down through Qinhuai families. The Jiangnan Examination Hall's exam cells are cramped, and visitors can try 'answering papers in a cell' to feel how hard the exams were
• Qinhuai snacks (duck blood and vermicelli soup, salted duck, osmanthus taro) with an evening boat ride are how old Nanjing welcomes guests.

Religion & beliefs

• The Confucius Temple is a Confucian place of worship, and the Dacheng Hall is solemn, so keep quiet
• the Qinhuai riverside once held Six Dynasties sites such as Taoye Ferry and Wuyi Lane, now secular scenery. People pray for blessings during the Spring Festival lanterns — simply be respectful.

Rules that apply here

Travel tips

• The Qinhuai Lantern Festival at Spring Festival is national intangible heritage and draws huge crowds, so plan ahead
• the evening boat trip takes about 40 minutes and is best after dark
• combine with Laomendong and Zhan Garden. Check tickets and opening hours on the official website.