Shikoku Pilgrimage

Background

The Shikoku Pilgrimage circles the four prefectures of Tokushima, Kochi, Ehime and Kagawa. It starts at Temple 1, Ryozen-ji, in Bando, Oasa-cho, Naruto City, Tokushima Prefecture, and ends at Temple 88, Okubo-ji, in Kagawa Prefecture. By tradition, the four prefectures are called the dojo of aspiration (Tokushima), the dojo of discipline (Kochi), the dojo of enlightenment (Ehime) and the dojo of nirvana (Kagawa). The full route is about 1,200 km, though figures range from about 1,200 to about 1,460 km depending on the route taken; adding the 20 bekkaku temples makes it longer, about 1,450 km by one account. The number 88 symbolizes the 88 earthly desires that cause human suffering, each temple a step toward purification. Many temples are said to have been founded or restored by Kobo Daishi Kukai, which largely rests on temple tradition and faith. Pilgrims are called ohenro-san and wear white clothing and a sedge hat and carry a kongozue staff; the white jacket bears the words dogyo ninin, two traveling together, meaning that Kobo Daishi walks with you. One account holds that the white clothing derives from burial dress and symbolizes a resolve to practice without fear of death. By one estimate about 150,000 people make the pilgrimage each year, only 1 to 2 percent of them on foot, while most go by bus or car; walking the whole route takes about 40 to 60 days. Most pilgrims go clockwise, but experienced pilgrims sometimes walk counterclockwise, known as gyaku-uchi.

Local customs

• Set out from Temple 1, Ryozen-ji, and walk clockwise in one go or in stages (kugiri-uchi)
• at each temple, pray at the main hall and then the Daishi Hall, and collect seals in a nokyocho book
• accept osettai along the way (food, drink, rides, lodging and more) and give an osamefuda name slip in return
• feel the different character of the four prefectures' dojo: aspiration in Tokushima, discipline in Kochi, enlightenment in Ehime and nirvana in Kagawa.

Travel tips

• You need not visit all 88 temples in one trip
• you can complete the route in stages over several trips. Nokyo seals carry a separate fee, as posted by each temple. Walking stretches include many mountain paths and rural roads, so wear comfortable walking shoes and carry plenty of water
• lodging is mainly pilgrim inns, guesthouses and temple shukubo, so book ahead in peak season. Check official guides for itineraries and each temple's opening arrangements.
• To reach Temple 1, Ryozen-ji, take the JR Kotoku Line to Bando Station and walk from there
• every Shikoku prefecture has rail and bus links to the major temples, with schedules on the official sites. Spring and autumn are best for long-distance walking, though rain can last for days, especially in the south
• summer brings strong sun and frequent rain, so avoid the hottest spells
• in winter southern Shikoku is relatively mild but the mountains are cold.