
Tromsø and the Arctic Cathedral
Tromsø · Ishavskatedralen · Tromsø, Troms, Norway
'The Paris of the North': a university town in the auroral zone, with the triangular Arctic Cathedral.
Know before you go
- Don't park in the road or on bends to watch the aurora
- don't ignore avalanche and icy-road warnings
- drones must be registered first
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Stories & people
Stories & people
History
Solving the mystery of the aurora with a magnetised sphere
The Norwegian physicist Kristian Birkeland built a series of observatories at high latitudes in northern Norway to collect magnetic data beneath the auroral zone; his 1899–1900 Norwegian polar expedition was the first to derive the global distribution of polar electric currents from ground-based magnetic measurements. In his laboratory he also simulated the Earth with a small magnetised sphere and fired electron beams at it; the electrons were guided towards the 'poles', forming glowing rings around them — from which he deduced that the aurora is produced in the same way. To fund his research he even invented an electromagnetic cannon.
Source: Wikipedia: Kristian Birkeland
History
The explorers' port of departure
Polar explorers such as Amundsen, Nobile and Nansen relied on Tromsø people's knowledge of the Arctic and often recruited crews here. In 1911 Amundsen became the first person to reach the South Pole. In June 1928 he flew north in a French-built seaplane to search for the crashed airship 'Italia' and never returned; a float and a fuel tank from the plane were later found off the coast near Tromsø.
Culture
Culture & customs
Background
Tromsø lies inside the auroral zone, so you can see the northern lights from the town itself. When it received its town charter in 1794 it had only about 80 inhabitants; in the 19th century its prosperity earned it the name 'the Paris of the North'. Polar explorers such as Amundsen, Nobile and Nansen relied on Tromsø people's knowledge of the Arctic and often recruited crews here. Tromsdalen Church on the east side of town, designed by Jan Inge Hovig and completed in 1965, is called the 'Arctic Cathedral' because it looks like an iceberg, though it is actually a parish church. From late November to mid-January is the polar night, when the sun does not rise; from late April to mid-August it is too light to see the aurora.
Local customs
- Locals carry on living and exercising normally through the polar night
- in winter people often wear headlamps and reflectors outdoors
Religion & beliefs
- The Arctic Cathedral belongs to the Church of Norway
- please keep quiet during services.
Etiquette
Etiquette & taboos
Rules that apply here
Norway: register before flying a drone
- Register as an operator in Norway or an EU/EFTA country and buy liability insurance
- Check no-fly zones
- Flying a drone without registering
Breaks Norwegian aviation rules; some areas are no-fly zones.
Verified Oct 19, 2026Source: GOV.UK: Norway travel advice
Norway: fires are banned in many hiking areas in summer
- Check the local fire ban before you set out
- Lighting a campfire where fires are banned
Police enforce the ban.
Verified Oct 19, 2026Source: GOV.UK: Norway travel advice
Norway: very strict drink-driving limits
- If you have drunk alcohol, don't drive
- Judging by your home country's standards that you are still fit to drive
The drink-driving limit is about a quarter of England's, and can mean a fine or even prison; on-the-spot fines for other traffic offences reach NOK 10,000.
Verified Oct 19, 2026Source: GOV.UK: Norway travel advice
Don’t DON'T
- Don't park in the road or on bends to watch the aurora
- don't ignore avalanche and icy-road warnings
- drones must be registered first
Locals appreciate DO
Locals appreciate drivers who don't suddenly stop in the middle of the road to watch the aurora.
Plan your visit
Practical info
| Best time | September–March, at night |
|---|---|
| Time needed | 2–3 days |
Travel tips
- The coastal weather is often cloudy, so your chance of seeing the aurora depends heavily on cloud cover — join a tour that drives to 'chase the light' according to the weather. In winter, meltwater often refreezes, so take care walking and driving. The aurora depends on solar activity and weather, so check the aurora forecast (Kp index) and cloud cover before you go
- chances are usually best between 10 p.m. and 2 a.m. Get away from city lights, bring a tripod and dress very warmly.
Photos
Photos

Andi Gentsch · CC BY-SA 2.0
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Godot13 · CC BY-SA 4.0
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