Northern lights over Tromsø

Tromsø and the Arctic Cathedral

Tromsø · Ishavskatedralen · Tromsø, Troms, Norway

Photo: Andi Gentsch · CC BY-SA 2.0

'The Paris of the North': a university town in the auroral zone, with the triangular Arctic Cathedral.

Know before you go

  • Don't park in the road or on bends to watch the aurora
  • don't ignore avalanche and icy-road warnings
  • drones must be registered first

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Stories & people

Stories & people

History

Solving the mystery of the aurora with a magnetised sphere

The Norwegian physicist Kristian Birkeland built a series of observatories at high latitudes in northern Norway to collect magnetic data beneath the auroral zone; his 1899–1900 Norwegian polar expedition was the first to derive the global distribution of polar electric currents from ground-based magnetic measurements. In his laboratory he also simulated the Earth with a small magnetised sphere and fired electron beams at it; the electrons were guided towards the 'poles', forming glowing rings around them — from which he deduced that the aurora is produced in the same way. To fund his research he even invented an electromagnetic cannon.

Kristian Birkeland1867–1917

Source: Wikipedia: Kristian Birkeland

History

The explorers' port of departure

Polar explorers such as Amundsen, Nobile and Nansen relied on Tromsø people's knowledge of the Arctic and often recruited crews here. In 1911 Amundsen became the first person to reach the South Pole. In June 1928 he flew north in a French-built seaplane to search for the crashed airship 'Italia' and never returned; a float and a fuel tank from the plane were later found off the coast near Tromsø.

Roald Amundsen1872–1928

Source: Wikipedia: Roald Amundsen; Wikipedia: Tromsø

Culture

Culture & customs

Background

Tromsø lies inside the auroral zone, so you can see the northern lights from the town itself. When it received its town charter in 1794 it had only about 80 inhabitants; in the 19th century its prosperity earned it the name 'the Paris of the North'. Polar explorers such as Amundsen, Nobile and Nansen relied on Tromsø people's knowledge of the Arctic and often recruited crews here. Tromsdalen Church on the east side of town, designed by Jan Inge Hovig and completed in 1965, is called the 'Arctic Cathedral' because it looks like an iceberg, though it is actually a parish church. From late November to mid-January is the polar night, when the sun does not rise; from late April to mid-August it is too light to see the aurora.

Local customs

  • Locals carry on living and exercising normally through the polar night
  • in winter people often wear headlamps and reflectors outdoors

Religion & beliefs

  • The Arctic Cathedral belongs to the Church of Norway
  • please keep quiet during services.

Etiquette

Etiquette & taboos

Rules that apply here

Red linePhotos & dronesNorway

Norway: register before flying a drone

  • Register as an operator in Norway or an EU/EFTA country and buy liability insurance
  • Check no-fly zones
  • Flying a drone without registering

Breaks Norwegian aviation rules; some areas are no-fly zones.

Verified Oct 19, 2026Source: GOV.UK: Norway travel advice

Red lineSafetyNorway

Norway: fires are banned in many hiking areas in summer

  • Check the local fire ban before you set out
  • Lighting a campfire where fires are banned

Police enforce the ban.

Verified Oct 19, 2026Source: GOV.UK: Norway travel advice

Red lineDrivingNorway

Norway: very strict drink-driving limits

  • If you have drunk alcohol, don't drive
  • Judging by your home country's standards that you are still fit to drive

The drink-driving limit is about a quarter of England's, and can mean a fine or even prison; on-the-spot fines for other traffic offences reach NOK 10,000.

Verified Oct 19, 2026Source: GOV.UK: Norway travel advice

Don’t DON'T

  • Don't park in the road or on bends to watch the aurora
  • don't ignore avalanche and icy-road warnings
  • drones must be registered first

Locals appreciate DO

Locals appreciate drivers who don't suddenly stop in the middle of the road to watch the aurora.

Plan your visit

Practical info

Best timeSeptember–March, at night
Time needed2–3 days

Travel tips

  • The coastal weather is often cloudy, so your chance of seeing the aurora depends heavily on cloud cover — join a tour that drives to 'chase the light' according to the weather. In winter, meltwater often refreezes, so take care walking and driving. The aurora depends on solar activity and weather, so check the aurora forecast (Kp index) and cloud cover before you go
  • chances are usually best between 10 p.m. and 2 a.m. Get away from city lights, bring a tripod and dress very warmly.

Photos

Photos

Sources & verification notes

Wikipedia: Tromsø

Wikipedia: Arctic Cathedral

Wikipedia: Aurora