Old Istanbul: Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and the Grand Bazaar

Background

Hagia Sophia was built in 537 under Justinian and was the spiritual centre of the Byzantine Empire for nearly a thousand years; after the Ottoman conquest in 1453 it became a mosque, in 1935 a museum, and in 2020 it was again used as a mosque. Diagonally opposite, the Blue Mosque, built in 1609–1616, takes its name from the more than 20,000 blue İznik tiles inside, and its six minarets caused controversy at the time. Within walking distance, the Grand Bazaar has been open since 1461, one of the oldest covered markets in the world, its trading tradition never broken.

Local customs

• The old city is Istanbul's most conservative and also its liveliest district: backgammon in teahouses and roast corn and chestnuts in the street are everyday sights
• haggling is still the norm in the Grand Bazaar. During Ramadan there are often public tables for breaking the fast in the evening, and visitors are sometimes invited to join.

Religion & beliefs

• Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque are both working mosques
• avoid visiting during the five daily prayers (especially Friday midday prayers). Women must cover their hair, shoulders and knees — coverings are usually provided free at the entrance
• remove shoes to enter the prayer area. Keep quiet and don't disturb worshippers.

Rules that apply here

Travel tips

• The Grand Bazaar is closed on Sundays, so plan around that
• give each mosque its own half day, with the bazaar in between. The Blue Mosque has been restored several times in recent years, so check the official website before you go. The old city has lots of cobbles, so wear comfortable shoes
• the terrace of the Süleymaniye Mosque is a free spot for a view over the city.