Peruvian ceviche

Background

Ceviche is found in many Latin American countries along the Pacific, but it is considered Peru's national dish, and UNESCO has recognised it as an expression of traditional Peruvian cuisine on its list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Unlike Japanese sashimi, the seafood is cured in fresh lemon or lime juice. Before citrus reached the Andes in the 16th century, ancient Andean coastal peoples cured fish in the juice of local plants such as banana passionfruit. The earliest written record of the word 'ceviche' appears in 'La Chicha', a patriotic song of 1820 regarded as Peru's first national anthem.

Local customs

• With red onion, chilli, corn and sweet potato
• the leftover marinade is called 'leche de tigre' (tiger's milk) and can be drunk on its own

Rules that apply here

Travel tips

• Lima's cevicherías mostly open for lunch only
• you'll find ceviche in Cusco and other highland cities too, but it's fresher on the coast. Prices and opening hours are set by each restaurant
• popular old places often have queues, so go outside peak mealtimes.