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Fez medina and Chouara Tannery
Chouara Tannery · Fes el-Bali, Fez, Morocco
Coloured dye vats in use since the 11th century, in the same city as the world's oldest university, founded in 859 and still teaching.
Know before you go
- The strong smell of the tannery is normal — don't complain loudly
- non-Muslims may not enter the al-Qarawiyyin Mosque
- haggle moderately for leather goods, as insulting offers are considered rude.
This article is Not yet verified. Please check official announcements for prices, opening hours and dates.
Stories & people
Stories & people
History
A thousand-year-old university founded by a woman
Fatima al-Fihri was born around 800 in Kairouan in present-day Tunisia and moved to Fez with her family early in the Idrisid dynasty. With her family's wealth she bought a plot of land in the city centre at a high price, and on the first day of Ramadan in the year 245 of the Islamic calendar (859) she laid the foundations of the al-Qarawiyyin Mosque. The mosque later grew into a teaching institution and in 1963 became the modern University of al-Qarawiyyin, regarded as the oldest continuously operating institution of higher learning in the world.
Source: Wikipedia: Fatima al-Fihri; Wikipedia: University of al-Qarawiyyin
Culture
Culture & customs
Background
The Chouara Tannery has been in use since the 11th century: its stone vats hold natural dyes made from saffron, poppy and mint, and craftsmen tread the hides barefoot in the vats, a process unchanged for a thousand years. In the same city, the University of al-Qarawiyyin was founded by Fatima al-Fihri in 859 and is recognised by Guinness as the world's oldest university still operating. Fes el-Bali is one of the largest and best-preserved old Arab cities in the world.
Local customs
- Fez is Morocco's capital of religion and crafts, where craftsmen follow their fathers' trades
- leather-shop terraces are the traditional place to view the tannery, and shopkeepers hand out sprigs of mint.
Religion & beliefs
- Non-Muslims may not enter the al-Qarawiyyin Mosque and can only admire it from the door
- the medina has many mosques, so give way at prayer times. Fez has a strong religious atmosphere, so dress conservatively.
Etiquette
Etiquette & taboos
Rules that apply here
Morocco: don't proselytise
- Respect the local Islamic faith
- Trying to convert Muslims to another religion or handing out missionary material
- Publicly criticising Islam (including online)
Proselytising can mean a fine or up to 3 years in prison; publicly criticising Islam can mean up to 2 years.
Verified Oct 19, 2026Source: GOV.UK: Morocco travel advice
Morocco: avoid public displays of affection
- Show restraint near religious sites and in tourist areas
- Kissing or hugging in public
It causes offence; same-sex intimacy can be prosecuted in Morocco.
Verified Oct 19, 2026Source: GOV.UK: Morocco travel advice
Morocco: during Ramadan, don't eat or drink in public by day
- Check opening hours during Ramadan
- Dress according to local custom
- Eating, drinking, smoking, chewing gum or swearing in public during the day
It offends people who are fasting.
Verified Oct 19, 2026Source: GOV.UK: Morocco travel advice
Don’t DON'T
- The strong smell of the tannery is normal — don't complain loudly
- non-Muslims may not enter the al-Qarawiyyin Mosque
- haggle moderately for leather goods, as insulting offers are considered rude.
Locals appreciate DO
- Fez craftsmen are extremely proud of their skills and happy to demonstrate tanning
- medina residents keep up traditional hospitality towards outsiders.
Plan your visit
Practical info
Travel tips
- Viewing terraces usually provide mint leaves to hold to your nose
- morning is the best time for photos, when the vats are most colourful. You're not obliged to buy from the terrace leather shops, but buying something is polite. The medina's lanes are a labyrinth, so hire a licensed guide.
Eat nearby
What to eat nearby
Must-try
- Tagine
- Couscous
- Pastilla (pigeon pie)
Tagine, couscous (a Friday tradition), pastilla (sweet-and-savoury pigeon pie), harira soup, msemen (layered flatbread) with cheese and honey
| Where to eat | Small places around Bab Boujloud / Talaa Kebira, snack stalls in the old-town souks |
|---|---|
| Dining etiquette | Most old-town mosques are closed to non-Muslims — don't eat, drink or be loud at their doors |
| Typical price per person | MAD 50–110 ≈ CNY 35–78 |
| Tips | The old town is a maze and easy to get lost in — go with a guide or an offline map; pastilla is sweet and savoury, so try a small portion first. |
Prices are typical rates as of October 2026, not exact quotes; CNY equivalents are approximate where exchange rates fluctuate.
le vrai Mister Jack · CC BY-SA 2.0
Photos
Photos
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just_a_cheeseburger · CC BY 2.0
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Uwe Brodrecht · CC BY-SA 2.0
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